Like any other tool, a sword is made of earthly materials (steel, wood, etc.) and can be damaged if misused or neglected. Swords are most definitely not indestructible. Consult the following guide to see what a real sword can and cannot do and how to care for a sword so that it may have a long working life.

What Swords Are …

Swords are weapons which were designed to cut and/or puncture the flesh and bone of human targets. To a lesser extent, swords can also penetrate light to medium armors, such as padded cloth, leather, and mail. However, if used improperly against even light armor (or equivalent test-cutting media), a sword can still suffer minor damage (scratches, nicks, etc.).

Martial artists who will be using their swords for practice cutting should always attempt to follow the proper forms and safety practices prescribed by their organization or school. Though most swords are designed to flex rather than bend or break, a cut executed improperly against even a soft target can put tremendous amounts of torsional stress on a blade. Proper form while cutting will eliminate or minimize this danger.

Though swords are no longer used as weapons today, DGS swords are designed to meet the requirements and attributes of historical blades. However, this fact also means that they must be treated with the same respect and care that historical swords required.

What They Are Not …

Swords are not indestructible and cannot cut through everything. Despite legends, stories, and movies to the contrary, swords cannot cut through thick wood, stone, or metal without suffering significant damage. Swords are also virtually ineffective against heavy armors, such as reinforced mail or plate. (Maces, war hammers, and other high-impact weapons were developed to defeat these armors.)

Real swords are not designed to be used in the edge-on-edge style of “fencing” portrayed in many cinematic, television, and theatrical productions. The thin cutting edge of a sword is fragile and will be damaged if abused in this manner. Historically, swordsmen avoided the direct blocks and parries depicted in today’s movies, striving instead to deflect incoming blows or evade them altogether. If you doubt this fact, take your favorite pair of kitchen knives and bang their edges together to see the type of damage your expensive sword will suffer if you treat it in this way.

Real swords are also not intended for use in practice against a pell. Striking a relatively unyielding pell will put unusually high stress on the junction between the blade and tang of a sword, eventually causing this critical area to bend or break. Instead of an actual sword, wooden wasters should be used for pell work.

Though it should go without saying, a sword is not an axe. Swords are not designed to cut down trees or chop wood. They are not meant to be used as pry bars or hammers either, for that matter. Always use the right tool for the right job.

Proper Maintenance

Most real swords are not fabricated from stainless steel, though some hilt components may be. Stainless is generally too brittle for sword-length blades, so traditional low-alloy steels remain the preferred medium. However, these simple steels are highly susceptible to rust. This is especially true in humid or damp climates.

Rust is caused by an oxidation process, the bonding of oxygen to iron in this case. This process can be exacerbated by the presence of dust, dirt, or especially moisture on a blade or fittings. Particulates and moisture can effectively trap oxygen next to the steel. (Storing a sword in a scabbard for a long period of time can have the same effect, if the scabbard has not been lined or properly treated.) Therefore, it is imperative to keep swords clean and dry as much as possible. And a sword should always be cleaned immediately after use.

In fact, there are two forms of oxidation the sword owner may encounter. The first and most destructive form is the brittle, red-colored compound we identify as common rust. This rust is highly unstable and can easily spread over and through steel, eventually consuming it entirely. The second form develops as a thin black or gray film on the surface of steel and can actually be beneficial. This patination, as it is commonly called, is relatively stable and will not spread into the steel. The patina can help prevent further corrosion of the steel, especially by the destructive red rust. (This is the principle behind conventional bluing and blackening processes, which are meant to protect steel.)

The easiest way to combat and prevent rust is by oiling or waxing. Both methods prevent oxygen from reaching the steel. Light oils (such as mineral oil) can be easily applied and removed but require periodic reapplication. Waxes are more difficult to apply and remove but are somewhat more permanent than oil. Both types of product can usually be purchased at home-improvement and sporting-goods stores.

Prior to oiling or waxing, the sword should be thoroughly cleaned. Oiling or waxing dirty steel can actually increase the likelihood of rust by trapping oxygen next to the metal. Once the sword is clean and dry, apply a thin coat of oil or wax. Remove before use of the sword and reapply after use (or periodically as required). This level of care can keep a sword virtually corrosion free for an indefinite period of time.

Angus Trim Swords

One of the great features about Angus Trim swords is that they are dismountable. By disassembling one of these swords, its blade and hilt components can be easily cleaned or repaired. The hilt assembly of an Angus Trim sword is secured by a cylindrical pommel nut. This nut must be removed in order to disassemble the sword.

To remove the pommel nut, first secure the sword blade in an appropriately padded table vice. Grip the pommel nut with a good pair of pliers or hand vice grip. (To avoid marring the nut, wrap it with a small piece of leather.) Loosen the pommel nut by turning it counterclockwise. The hilt can now be easily disassembled.

To reassemble the sword, again secure the blade. Then replace the hilt components. Tighten the pommel nut by hand, turning it clockwise. Use the pliers or vice grip to fully tighten the nut. This must be done carefully. After each half turn, remove the sword from the vice and tap the blade sharply. Once you can hear the “ring of steel,” the pommel nut is sufficiently tight. Do not overtighten.